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ACCOMMODATIONS
Staying in Delhi can be frustratingly expensive. Prices have been driven up so much that it is hard to find anything acceptable for than Rs100. Paharganj (Main Bazaar) is Delhi's main tourist enclave. Though it has adapted to travellers' needs, it still retains its legendary seediness and can be dangerous, especially for women travelling alone. If you've just arrived in India or are simply not into grime, head to Connaught Place for its own collection of nicer, though more expensive, guest houses and hotels. On the other hand, if you really want to get a feel for Delhi, there's always Old Delhi, the purist's retreat.
PAHARGANJ
Paharganj is one long, messy line of cheap hotels and restaurants. Unless otherwise noted, check-out is at noon. Most of the better places have rooftop restaurants and generators for Delhi's all-too-frequent power outages. Rooms vary greatly based on whether they have A/C. All of the following directions (right, left) are given as you walk west on Main Bazaar from the New Delhi Railway Station.
HOTEL RAK INTERNATIONAL, Chowk Bowli.
Down an alley to the right off Main Bazaar before 6 Tooti Chowk. Peaceful, slightly upscale place where you'll find almost forget you're in grungy Paharganj. Part of Holy Smoke, starring Kate Winslet, was filmed on the rooftop terrace. Comfortable, newly painted rooms have small couches, octagonal glass tables, and clean white sheets.
Singles Rs250 - Rs550; doubles Rs350 - rs650.
Tel: 23 - 58 - 65 - 08
MAJOR'S DEN GUEST HOUSE, Lakshmi Narayan St.
At the west end of Main Bazaar. Turn right at Metropolis Tourist Home, then take another right after Imperial Cinema; Major's is at the end of the street on the right. Tucked away from all the noise, this den is the perfect retreat from the impersonal tourist bungalows of the main bazaar. Meet the Major himself whose motto is "Treat the guest as God." Friendly family staff lives downstairs. Feeling of security, comfortable and clean rooms, peaceful rooftop patio.
Singles Rs250 - Rs350; doubles Rs450 - Rs500.
Tel: 23 - 58 - 41 - 63
ANOOP HOTEL, Main Bazaar.
Popular, multi-storied backpackers' hotel with one of the best 24 hour, rooftop restaurants in Paharganj. Spacious, well-kept rooms collied by powerful fans and a small balcony on each floor. Check-our 24 hours.
Singles Rs180 - Rs350; doubles Rs250 - Rs400.
Tel: 23 - 58 - 93 - 66
HOTEL PRINCE PALACE, Gali Thanedar Wali.
Down an alley on the left just past Appetite Restaurant. Sandwiched between Hotel Karlo Kastle and Hotel Prince Palace Deluxe, 2 slightly lesser clones whose rooms are at least Rs100 - Rs150 less, this hotel has a bit more panache with an open lobby, mixed marble interior, and elevator. Super-tidy rooms have attached bath and TV; some even have fridges and balconies. 24 hour, rooftop restaurant.
Singles Rs250 - Rs500; doubles Rs450 - Rs850.
Tel: 23 - 58 - 88 - 73
HOTEL KARLO KASTLE, Gali Thanedar Wali.
Next to Hotel Prince Palace. Relaxed and clean with marble-lined hallways. Spacious rooms with attached bath and TV. Rooftop restaurant.
Singles Rs250 - Rs500; doubles Rs300 - Rs550.
Tel: 23 - 58 - 28 - 21
YES PLEASE GUEST HOUSE, From Main Bazaar.
Turn left down the alley for Ajay Guest House and take a left after Hare Rama Guest House; Yes Please is on the right. Newly remodeled, clean, comfortable rooms with effective A/C are a great value. Not to be confused with Hotel Yes Please.
Singles Rs160 - Rs170; doubles Rs200 - Rs300.
Tel: 23 - 58 - 86 - 88
HOTEL SHELTON, Main Bazaar.
On the left after 6 Tooti Chowk. This 5-storey hotel has perhaps one of the biggest and brightest signs in Delhi, visible from the railway station. Provides clean towel and soap as well as tidy rooms with spotless, tiled bathrooms.
Singles Rs250 - Rs500; doubles Rs300 - Rs550.
Tel: 23 - 58 - 05 - 75
HOTEL NAMASKAR, Chandiwalan.
Down an alley 300m on the right, off Main Bazaar. Turn before Camran lodge. Basic rooms with sparkling clean bathrooms set back from the Main Bazaar hubbub. Helpful staff.
Singles and doubles Rs200 - Rs450.
Tel: 23 - 58 - 22 - 33
HOTEL VISHAL, Main Bazaar.
West end, after Hare Krishna Guest House. More mellow than other backpacker hangouts. Bathrooms cleaner than the bedrooms. Great rooftop for relaxation.
Singles Rs150 - Rs400; doubles Rs200 - Rs400.
Tel: 23 - 56 - 21 - 23
CONNAUGHT PLACE
Connaught Place is less chaotic Paharganj, though some travellers might find it too quiet, especially at night.
H.K. CHOUDHARY GUESTHOUSE, H-35/3, H-block, Middle Circle.
Excellent service. Rooms are exceptionally clean and nicely decorated. Follow the tree growing through the building to the rooftop terrace. Discounted rates for longer stays.
Singles Rs450 - Rs550; doubles Rs500 - Rs770.
Tel: 23 - 32 - 20 - 43
HOTEL PALACE HEIGHTS, Radial Rd. 6, D-block, on the top floor.
High above the streets, this hotel's rooms are a bit drab, but the wide, breezy terrace provides a welcome break from the bustling city below.
Singles Rs300 - Rs475; doubles Rs350 - Rs735.
Tel: 23 - 41 - 54 - 19
SUNNY GUEST HOUSE, Scindia House, Connaught Ln.
Off Janpath beyond Connaught Circus. Standard backpackers grotto. Doem room is like a military barracks, but more spacious than Ringo's. Basic rooms face a pleasant central courtyard.
Dorms Rs90; singles Rs125 - Rs170; doubles Rs250 - Rs400.
Tel: 23 - 31 - 29 - 09
RINGO GUEST HOUSE, Scindia House.
Near Sunny Guest House. A little hideaway above the waves of cars and people. Staggeringly popular backpackers' retreat is overcrowded and overpriced, but has a pleasant garden area and a relaxed atmosphere.
Dorms Rs90; singles Rs150; doubles Rs250 - Rs400.
Tel: 23 - 31 - 06 - 05
OLD DELHI
This is the chicken-squawking, dung-slathered real thing. While prices are cheaper and people are less likely to try to cheat you, it can be hard to find anyone who speaks English. Western women should exercise caution. Stereotypes about foreigners - Western women in particular - are stronger here than elsewhere in the city. Many men will assume that solo female travellers are willing to give sexual favors, so women should avoid dressing provocatively or going out alone after dark.
HOTEL NEW CITY PALACE
West of the Jama Masjid. Excellent views of the mosque. Clean rooms have attached baths with seat toilets and balconies with rooftop access. Check-out 24 hours.
Singles with bath Rs200; doubles Rs250 - Rs650.
Tel: 23 - 27 - 95 - 48 or 23 - 25 - 58 - 20
HOTEL AMBAR, Katra Banyan.
South of Fatehpuri Corner. A sun-lit foyer with purple tile walls provides a nice introduction to colorful, air-cooled rooms with comfortable beds.
Doubles Rs325.
Tel: 23 - 96 - 50 - 81 or 23 - 92 - 56 - 92
VAISHNAW HOTEL
North of Fatehpuri Corner. Look for the bright yellow sign. Four floors of recently renovated, spacious rooms off a garden courtyard. Check-out 24 hours.
Singles Rs150 - Rs350.
Tel: 23 - 97 - 89 - 25 or 23 - 96 - 03 - 54
KHUSH-DIL HOTEL, Chandni Chowk.
At the west end, just south of the mosque on Fatehpuri Corner. Small rooms with narrow beds and good views of the hectic street below. Check-out 24 hours.
Singles with common bath Rs100; doubles Rs150 - Rs200.
Tel: 23 - 95 - 21 - 10
FOOD
It's worth shelling out a little cash for some of Delhi's fantastic meals. There are restaurants in every price range: Western-style fast food, decent Chinese and Middle Eastern cuisine, a couple of Mexican restaurants, and of course, excellent Indian food. For a real splurge (up to Rs300 - Rs400 per entree), head to one of the five-star hotels, such as the Maurya Sheraton or the Ashok Frontier.
PAHARGANJ
This backpackers' district has developed several hot spots for hanging out; most of them are five stories up. None of these places serves exceptional food, but the rooftops are the place to find Paharganj's backpack-rats sipping tea and slurping curd after hours. It's best to get off the Main Bazaar for food - most of the main strip's restaurants cater to the jaded palates and fragile digestive systems of backpackers. Wander the streets north of Paharganj to see where the locals are eating.
MALHOTRA RESTAURANT, 1833 Lakshmi Narayan St.
Walk to the west end of Main Bazaar, turn right on Rajguru Rd. at the Metropolis, then take the first left. A simple place packed with a mix of locals and tourists. Quick, efficient service and good Indian and Chinese food from Rs25. Best deal on the block - succulent, full-sized tandoori baby chicken Rs65. A/C comfort upstairs.
Open: daily 11am - 11pm.
LEEMA RESTAURANT, Main Bazaar.
Next to the Hotel Vivek. Perhaps the best budget-hotel restaurant in Paharganj. Clean bright interior, A/C, attentive staff, and scrumptious vegetable thalis with all the fixings Rs60.
Open: daily 7:30am - 11pm.
GOLDEN CAFE, Nehru Bazaar.
From Main Bazaar turn left at 6 Tooti Chowk and walk 100m; it's on the left. Small joint with window front seating specializing in East Asian cuisine. Enjoy watching the vegetable market over Vegetable Manchurian (Rs25) or "Om Rice" (Rs25).
Open: daily 8am - 11pm.
KHOSLA CAFE, Main Bazaar.
On the left 30m before Rajguru Rd. Start the morning with tasty fruit curd (Rs20). Shaded outdoor seating is pleasant for people-watching.
AJAY CAFE GERMAN BAKERY, Main Bazaar.
Inside Ajay Guest House opposite Hare Rama come early for cinnamon rolls (Rs15) fresh out of the oven.
METROPOLIS RESTAURANT & BAR
At the west end of Main Bazaar, in Metropolis Tourist Home. Sit-down dining with A/C, full bar, and dim lighting. Large selection of Chinese, Indian, and continental dishes. "Le Steak Minute Diane" (Rs200) is served with vegetables.
Open: daily 8am - 11pm.
CONNAUGHT PLACE
Catering to the elite, restaurants in Connaught Place serve Indian and International cuisine several times better than the usual fare served down the road in backpackers' paradise. Dishes are priced accordingly.
EMBASSY RESTAURANT, D-block.
Semi-formal dining, attentive service, and fine Indian and continental food at "oh-why-not" prices. Try the Mutton Chop Masala (Rs142), patties of minced meat marinated with fresh herbs cooked in thick almond and cream gravy.
Open: daily 10am - 11pm.
Tel: 23 - 41 - 51 - 63
RODEO, A-block.
Near the AmEx office. Step into a saloon and get a taste of the Wild West lassoed into the New Delhi East. Cowboy-Indian waiters shoot up an array of cocktails, beer, and rather authentic Tex-Mex food. Nachos Rs60 - Rs160, chicken enchiladas Rs275. Happy Hour 3:30pm - 7:30pm, 50% off selected beverages.
Open: daily noon - midnight.
NIRULA'S, L-block.
Huge multi-restaurant the size of a multi-storey car garage to accommodate any taste or budget. Head to 21 Ice Creams to try Indian flavors like Zafrani Badaam Pista, 21 Love, and Delhi Delight (Rs29 per scoop).
Hit the family eatery Potpourri upstairs
Open: daily 7am - midnight).
Step into oriental decadence at the Chinese room for scrumptious stir-fry.
Open: daily 12:30pm - 4pm and 7pm - 11pm.
For food on the go, try Hot Shoppe's SubZ burger (Rs10). Open daily 11am - 11pm.
The Pastry shop has a 50% discount on bread after 8pm.
Open: 9am - 10pm.
PARIKRAMA, 22 Kasturba Gandhi Marg.
Delhi's revolving 24th fl. restaurant takes 1.5 hours to go round, and you probably won't want to finish in less. Amazing, labeled views are complimented by delicious but expensive Indian and Chinese entrees (Rs150 - Rs410). Beer Rs125. A feast for your eyes and your stomach.
Open: daily noon - 11:30pm.
HOTEL SARAVANA BHAVAN, 46 Janpath.
Just before Tolstoy Marg. This popular chain restaurant originating from Tamil Nadu serves 2 ft. dosas (Rs30), South Indian thalis on a banana leaf (Rs60), and fresh blended juices (Rs20 - Rs45). Always packed but has comfortable seating.
Open: daily 8am - 11pm.
WENGER & CO. PASTRY SHOP, A-block, Inner Circle.
Next to the AmEx office. Gourmet take-out bakery patisserie (most Rs22).
Open: daily 10:30am - 8pm.
UNITED COFFEE HOUSE, E-block.
Victorian-Era flashback with high ceilings, ornately carved walls, crystal chandeliers, and plush vinyl seats. Vegetable and non-vegetable dishes Rs75 - Rs295. Coffee with ice cream Rs52.
Open: daily 9:30am - 11:30pm. Last order at 11:30pm.
OLD DELHI
Old Delhi offers everything form dal bhat to pizza, although most of the restaurants here are frequented only by locals.
KARIM
In a small courtyard off Matya Mahal, about 8 shops down from the Jama Masjid (not visible from the road). One of the city's most popular and famous restaurants, Karim has been run by descendants of the cooks of Mughal royalty since 1913. Menu full of rich, meaty meals. Half dishes (at half-price) fit the bill for the budget traveller. Half chicken biryani Rs75, full mutton stew Rs90.
Open: daily 7am - midnight.
MOTI MAHAL RESTAURANT, Netaji Subhash Marg.
Delicious tandoori cuisine served in an air-conditioned dining room with sparkling chandeliers. Kebabs from Rs105, vegetable curries Rs50 - Rs90. Live music some nights 8pm - midnight.
Open: daily 11am - midnight.
RINKEY RESTAURANT, Bara Bazaar.
From the Kashmiri Gate ISBT, turn left on Lothian Rd. and then right on Bara Bazaar. One of the few sit-down places near the bus station. Lots of choices. Fresh pizza rs70, onion uttappam Rs30.
Open: daily 9:30 - 9:30pm.
NEW DELHI
Many of Delhi's newest and best eating options hide in the south, at the posh arcades of Defense Colony Market and greater Kailash, away from tourist centers. These hip, popular, and sometimes affordable restaurants make a great night out or a well-deserved break after touring.
SAGAR, 18 Defense Colony Market.
Winner of the "Times Food Award" for Best South Indian Restaurant in Delhi. Lightning-quick service brings tasty thalis (Rs45), idii vadas (Rs26), uttappams (Rs30 - Rs45), and 30 different flavors of meal-capping ice cream. North Indian and Chinese branch a few doors down.
Open: daily 8am - 11pm.
THE YELLOW BRICK ROAD, Ambassador Hotel, Sujan Singh Park.
Near Khan Market, 1km south of India Gate. Follow the yellow brick road and take your taste buds to new heights. Listed as one of New Delhi's "Top 20 Restaurants," this festive coffee shop with a garden patio prepares excellent dishes ranging from the mouth-tingling Bangkok vegetable curry (Rs280) to extra virgin pasta (Rs285). Leave room for the infamous "Bull's Eye" dessert (Rs145).
Open: daily 6am - 4am.
MUSEUMS
NATIONAL MUSEUM, Janpath, just south of Rajpath.
This museum's ambitious mission is to provide an overview of Indian life and culture from prehistoric times to the present. Exhibits are all built around a circular courtyard and the ground-floor galleries showcase some of the museum's most popular items. Other displays trace the development of Indian scripts, iconography, and coins over the past 16 centuries. An enormous vault houses the museum's impressive jewellery collection, which includes gaudy gilded earrings, necklaces, and bracelets dating from the 1st century AD. Remarkable works of decorative art and a collection of Neolithic stone artifacts fill the remaining ground floor galleries. Upstairs, the maritime heritage gallery charts Indian naval progress since ancient times. In the adjacent room, there are replicas of the cave murals and ceiling paintings from Ajanta. The top-notch collection of musical instruments in the Sharan Rani Gallery, donated in 1980 by renowned sarod player Sharan Rani, is remarkably comprehensive: instruments include handcrafted sarangis and sitars as well as a glass tabla. Rs150; students with ID Rs1. Camera fee Rs300.
Guided tours begin at the enquiry counter at 10:30am, 11:30am, noon, 2pm and 3:30pm.
Open: Tuesday - Saturday 10am - 5pm.
Tel: 23 - 01 - 92 - 72
CRAFTS MUSEUM, Pragati Maidan, Bhairon Marg, off Mathura Rd.
Built in 1991, the Crafts Museum has a collection of 22,000 objects originating from nearly every state in the country. The museum is divided into three sections. Near the entrance, and open-air, live demonstration area provides an opportunity to glimpse artisans casting metal for sculptures, stringing jewelry, and weaving baskets from straw. Also outdoors is a complex filled with life-size reproductions of rural huts and houses brought to Delhi form around the country. Inside, impressive displays showcase the diversity of traditional Indian crafts, including 18th-century wood carvings from Karnataka, string puppets from Rajasthan, a myriad of textiles, and a model of a Bihari wedding chamber.
Open: Tuesday - Saturday 10am - 5pm.
Craft demonstrations and outdoor displays
Open: daily 10am - 7pm.
Outdoor displays partially closed July 1st - October 1st. Free.
NATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART, Jaipur House, southeast of India Gate.
Once the mansion of the Maharaja of Jaipur, this gallery houses a diverse collection of Indian art produced over the last 150 years. The paintings range from European landscapes to finger paintings and Cubist abstractions, though most were produced after Independence . Some provocative sculptures linger precariously in the middle of the gallery halls. Highlights include the bold designs of Jamini Roy, the paintings of the turn-of-the-century Bengal School, which were inspired by South Asian folk art and East Asian high art, and Badrinath Arya's Khoj, a painting of subterranean stalactite-like staircases. Affordable reproductions are available (Rs30 - Rs50) at the entrance lobby.
Open: Tuesday - Sunday 10am - 5pm.
Tel: 23 - 38 - 28 - 35
NEHRU MEMORIAL MUSEUM AND PLANETARIUM, Teen Murti Bhawan, Teen Murti Rd.
Built inside the estate of India's first prime minister, the museum has as much to say about the independence movement as a whole as it does about Nehru himself. Between peeks into Nehru's study, office, and livingroom, visitors are guided past shots of Nehru as a dour youth, as a student at Harrow and Cambridge, and as the humble, generous leader of India. Adjacent to the museum is the Nehru Planetarium, where you can visualize a pulsar or find out what your weight would be on Jupiter.
Open: Tuesday - Sunday 9am - 5pm. Free. Planitarium; Open: 11am - 5pm (Rs2).
Planitarium showings in English Tuesday - Sunday 11:30am and 3pm. (Rs15).
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